Upcycled earrings tutorial

Paste paper earring makeover

Having had great fun making lots of paste papers I decided to use some to make over a pair of earrings I was given a few years ago to suit my own taste. If you fancy having a go I’ve written a little tutorial.

Paste Paper Earring Tutorial

You will need:

• A pair of flat earrings to make over
• Pretty paper – your own painted paper or scrapbook paper
• Paper scissors
• Craft knife and cutting mat
• complementary or contrasting bead
• small amount of 20 gauge wire
• wire cutters, round nose and flat nose pliers
• PVA (or similar like Elmer’s glue) and brush to spread it
• Pencil
• Paint/Sharpie to match or contrast (optional)
• Acrylic wax, Mod Podge or varnish to seal

The first step is to take your earrings apart. Mine were wooden discs hung on ear wires. I kept the jump ring to reuse at the end. Make sure you use your flat nose pliers to bend the ring sideways rather than pulling them open, as this weakens the wire, plus it’s hard to keep the shape. I hope that makes sense.

Choose your favourite part of the paper and draw round the earring four times, then cut out, slightly outside the line. If, like me you have a hole in the middle cut it out before sticking down. You can lightly fold the middle and snip into the hole before cutting it out.

Spread PVA (or similar white glue) onto the paper and then stick it to one side of the earring. I found I could slide the paper around to position it where I liked. Do one side then leave to dry.

Here are my earrings with the first side glued down. Initially I planned to leave the original pattern for the back, but in the end I felt it didn’t work, as they were too different, so I covered both sides.

I also ended up colouring the white edges at the end, but if you want to do yours now is a good time. When the paper is dry use scissors or a craft knife to trim the paper close to the edge. Use a sharp point such as a needle or the point of a pair of compasses to reopen the hole. Make sure you push from the front to the back so that the edges stay smooth.

While the paper is drying take your bead and thread it onto the wire. Using your round nose pliers make a loop in the end of the wire, then cut the wire about 1cm beyond the bead and make another loop. Trim any excess wire.

Glue your second side of paper onto the back of the earrings, sliding into place. Trim again when dry and reopen the hole from the side you have just stuck down. Paint or colour your edges if you haven’t already and leave to dry.

My earrings before the edges were coloured

Finally, it’s a good idea to seal your earrings to protect them as they are paper. I used Acrylic wax, which can be buffed to a soft shine, but something like Mod Podge would work, or a spray varnish – whatever you have.

The final step is to reassemble the earrings. Put the jump rings back through the holes, and add the bead, then close the ring using flat nose pliers. Then open the top loop and add your ear wires, and now you’re ready to show off your new earrings.

Upcycled earrings

If you decide to have a go I’d love to see what you did.

Boho Slouch Sling Bag Tutorial

This is my lovely and very colourful new bag I’ve made for work. I thought I’d share how I made it in a tutorial. It’s going to be pretty picture heavy as I find it easier to follow pictures.

To make this bag I used 4 fat quarters from Japan Crafts, which you can find here. They also do kits if you prefer.

As well as the fabric you need matching thread, a 20cm minimum zip, magnetic snap fastener, medium weight iron on interfacing, iron on wadding. You will also need scissors, a tape measure, pins, pliers, double sided tape and a sewing machine. Before you start please read through to make sure you understand all the instructions.

Step 1

Make a paper template for the bag 37 cms wide, 32cm high at the sides with 72 cm in the middle for the strap. The strap is 7cm wide and I made the curves using a dinner plate. This includes a 1cm seam allowance all round with a base of 10cm wide. As I was using fat quarters I had to cut an extra strip from the side to make the strap long enough. I don’t have a picture of my pattern, but I hope it’s clear what I mean from this picture. Don’t forget to add in a couple of centimetres if you have to piece the strap for the seam allowance.

Step 2

You will need to cut 4 pieces using this pattern, 2 for the outside and 2 for the lining. Also use the pattern for 2 pieces of interfacing and 2 pieces of fusible wadding.

From the remaining fabric cut 2 rectangles 25cm x 18cm and 2 of interfacing for the internal pocket. Also cut 2 rectangles of fabric 26cm x 18cm for the zip pocket and 2 of interfacing.

Step 3

If you need to, stitch the straps on to the bag pieces, and iron the seam open. Now iron the interfacing to the back of the outer fabric. This always seems to take ages. Do the same with the wadding on the lining. This takes even longer. Iron the interfacing on the back of the pocket pieces.

Step 4

Now stitch together the body and lining down one side and iron the seams open.

Step 5 – zip pocket

The zip needs to be at least 8cm shorter than the width of the pocket so trim it to size from the pull side then stitch the ends together.

Measure the length of the zip teeth and the draw a rectangle 1cm wide and the length of the zip teeth (the bit that will show on the outside ).

Position the rectangle at least 5cm down from the top of the pocket.

Place your pocket on the front of the bag right sides together making sure it is placed centrally over the seam and at least 7cm down from the top of the bag. Stitch round the outside of the rectangle.

Now using sharp scissors cut along the central line and into the corners carefully. Don’t snip your stitches.

Now pull the pocket through the hole to the back and iron carefully.

Now here comes the double sided tape. Cut a couple of strips and use them to stick the zip to the back of your opening. Try and get the tape near the edges so that you don’t stitch over it and gunk up your needle.

On the front stitch round the opening using a zip foot and then take out the tape.

Finally, pin the other pocket piece to the back of the pocket with right sides together. Now sew round the outside and voila, you’ve made a lovely flush zip pocket.

Step 6 – internal pocket

Take the other 2 pocket pieces and pin them together right sides together. Stitch round the outside leaving a gap of about 8cm along the bottom edge. Clip the corners and turn it through to the right side then iron carefully.

Then stitch close to the top edge. Pin the pocket to the lining centring it on the seam 7cm below the top edge and stitch close to the edge down the side, along the bottom, closing the opening and up the other side. Then stitch a seam down the middle to make 2 pockets.

Step 7

Line up the remaining sides on the outer fabric and lining and stitch closed.

Step 8 – magnetic fastener

On the lining mark where the fastener will be 4cm down from the top. I used the plate that goes on the back to mark where to position the snap.

Make 2 little snips and push the legs of the snap through. It’s a good idea to reinforce the back with an extra piece of interfacing before pushing the plate over the legs. Take your pliers and bend the legs in.

I use a scrap of fabric over the front of the snap to protect it. Repeat on the opposite side making sure the 2 halves match up.

Step 9 – the base

Line up the bottom edges of the bag with the right sides together and the seams lined up with each other. Sew along the bottom.

The next bit is a bit tricky to explain, but hopefully the picture clarifies it. At the corners squash it together to make a triangle.

Draw a 10cm line across and then stitch it. Cut off the excess and repeat at the other end. It creates a square base. Repeat with the lining, but leave a gap of about 10cm in the middle of the base for turning the bag right side out later.

Step 10

Turn the lining inside out and push the outside of the bag into it so that the right sides are together. Pin the top edges together.

Stitch around both sides leaving 6 to 8cm free at the top of the straps.

Clip the curves.

Step 11

Pull the bag through to the right side through the hole in the lining.

This is quite hard to do and when you get to the straps it can be a job to pull them through. I used this tool to help.

I got it from a market years ago. I think it may be a medical tool. (Swab please nurse). Pliers would probably work as well.

Now iron the bag, paying special attention to the edges.

Step 12

Line the straps up with right sides together and stitch together.

Repeat with the other side. Iron seams open and then turn sides under. Now topstitch around both sides close to the edge closing in the raw edges on the strap.

Almost done. All you have left to do is to sew up the lining. I used a ladder stitch, but you can machine it closed if you prefer.

Doesn’t that look neat?

Finally, iron your bag and admire.

Look at that loveliness inside that pocket, and so useful too.

And another useful pocket, perfect for a phone or my glasses.

Well, that’s it. I hope it’s all clear. If you have any questions just ask and I’ll do my best to help.

Tote bags

Vintage sheets recycled

I got the urge to make a few bags with a view to using up some of my fabric stash, so I’ve made a couple of tote bags. I used a tutorial fom handmadiya, found on Pinterest. Sorry I couldn’t work out how to add a link. I particularly like this one I made with a vintage sheet. Everyone talks about them as though they are ten a penny, but this is the only one I’ve ever found. The base and lining use an upholstery fabric given to me about 10 years ago by a neighbour. She gave me some gorgeous silks as well which I have yet to find the best use for.

The back

Here you can see the vintage sheet in all its floral loveliness.

Interior of the bag

There are two internal pockets and a magnetic snap fastener.

Here is the other bag I made using  remnants of curtain fabric. The base is made with a William Morris design called Compton – one of my favourites and possibly named after the village where the artist Watts lived and worked. I had a door curtain made of this in my first house.

Here is the back.

And here is the inside.
I hope to make more bags, but it is surprising how much fabric these tote bags use up, so I may do some piecing for the next ones.

Making Art Papers with Concentrated Orange Mate

I saw a technique by Julie Fei-Fan Balzer using a concentrated cleaner called Citra Solv,  which of course isn’t readily available in the UK. Its main ingredient comes from orange skins, so I asked in my local health food shop and found this.

Concentrated Orange Mate by Earth Friendly Products

It cost around £3.50, so I thought I’d experiment. For this technique you need the inner pages of National Geographic magazines. For the full tutorial check out my inspiration. http://balzerdesigns.typepad.com_designs/2014/07art-journal-every-day-making-art-papers-with-citra-solv.html?utm…
I didn’t have as much luck with my initial soaked/sprayed pages and some pages did nothing, but when I used stencils I had great fun.

Some of my papers

Using Orange Mate on cotton wool I rubbed through a stencil.

The one on the left is the same stencil as used by Julie Fei-Fan Balzer. She recommends using stencils with large holes.

For this double page I used a cotton bud to rub randomly through a diamond stencil.

This one was more fiddly rubbing through all the different holes with a cotton bud.

Here I drew round the inside of a rectangular stencil using a cotton bud. I used a lot of cotton buds.

This is the same rectangular stencil, but using cotton wool and rubbing downwards to create a sharp effect at the top down to a fuzzy look.

Finally, I went round the inside of the round stencil with Orange Mate on a cotton bud. I used a black pen so that I could see the circles better, then using a scribbly sort of stencil l rubbed out a pattern avoiding the round shapes. I particularly like the right side. It looks sort of icy.

Here’s a close-up of it.
Now, what shall I do with them all?

Needle felted brooch tutorial

This Friday I’m doing a workshop on needle felting a brooch at Guildford
House, so I thought I’d do a post on it.
These are a few I’ve made as samples

So, you need a piece of foam or you can use a special brush to stab into. I’ve used foam placed on a hard protected surface. As a guide choose a biscuit (cookie) cutter in the shape you like and put it on your foam.

I’ve chosen a pig for this one. Then pull, (don’t cut), some fleece and push it into the cutter.

Then take a felting needle and stab vertically down into the fleece. The needles have barbs on them, which mat the fleece together.

Before needle felting

After needle felting

When it’s started to stick together take the cutter off and peel the fleece off the foam. There may be bits of foam in the back, so pick them out. Then turn the cutter over and push the fleece back in the other way up and needle it again. You can use the needle to adjust the fleece into corners. If you don’t have enough fleece just add some more and needle it in.
Keep doing this until the fleece maintains its shape. Then you can remove the cutter and very carefully needle the edges. Mind your fingers – those needles are very sharp!

Now you can add some detail if you like. The pig is a sort of soft lilac, so I added some pale green patches.

Then I added an eye in a scrap of indigo.

Finally finish off your brooch by stitching a brooch back onto the back.
Other things you can try is to needle some fabric on, which is what I’ve done with the dog’s coat, using a scrap of tartan wool. I wrapped it round to the back.
You can felt wool (yarn) to create detail.

On this bird I am felting wool onto the tail, which is made of a bit of felted jumper. The legs were made with thick wool needled onto the back and knotted.
On the face I’ve created a 3D nose by making a ball felting it a little then felting it on to the face. You can adjust shapes with the needle. The blush on the cheeks is made by putting the fleece on the back, which creates a softer look. I stitched on some beads for earrings.
You can also use textured wools to create more effects, which is what I did with the flower.
Hope you enjoyed this tutorial and have fun.

Monster Phone Case Tutorial

Tomorrow is National Stitch Day, as organised by the Embroiderer’s Guild, and it fell to me to arrange something to do. So, I and other members of our Guild will be sitting at the cafe outside C&H Fabrics in Guildford stitching and inviting people to join in. I’ve made a phone case and some packs to give away, including instructions, so I decided to put them on the blog as well for you to have a go too.

To make your own case you will need some felt in 7 colours, including scraps in black and white.

Stranded cotton  in toning colours

A button

Tape Measure

Needle, pins

Sewing scissors

Paper scissors

Scrap paper a pencil a ruler to make the pattern

What you need to make phone case

To start with you need to make a pattern, so measure round your phone’s width and length with the tape measure. My phone is 15.5cm around the width and 29cm around the length. To work out the size of your pattern divide each measurement in half, giving me 7.75cm rounded up to 8cm wide and 14.5cm long rounded up to 15cm. Add 1cm seam allowance to the width giving 9cm and 0.5cm to the length giving 15.5cm. Draw the pattern out on the scrap paper, drawing in the seam allowance as well, then cut it out. To round the corners draw round a penny at the 2 bottom corners.

Now you have your pattern you can sketch your monster on the front, keeping within the seam allowance. If you google monsters or check on Pinterest you can find loads of inspiration, or you can copy mine.

Pin your pattern to the front fabric and cut it out.

Paper pattern ready to be cut out

The next bit is slightly complicated to explain. As you can probably see on the picture above there is a flap drawn over the monster’s eye. To get the pattern for the back I cut out the flap and laid it down above the pattern mirrored and then drew around it to get a pattern for the back, which included the flap. Lay this pattern onto your back fabric, pin and cut out. I recommend not cutting the flap to shape at this stage, but leaving it long until the end! You can see this in one of the pictures above.

The pattern for the back

The next step is to cut out monster shape from the front. It will be missing a bit as you’ve cut the flap, so pin it onto your monster fabric and cut around the side that is complete, then unpin it and reverse it to do the other side. This also means you get a symmetrical monster.

Reversing your monster pattern

Now you need to cut out 2 white eyes – they needn’t be the same size, but one should be bigger than your button, so it shows underneath. Also, cut 1 black pupil, a selection of spots in a contrast colour, spikes and as many white teeth as you like. I put sequins in the kits I am giving away to use instead of the spots.

Lay out all your pieces on the front adjusting them until you are happy with your monster. Take the flap of paper you cut off and lay it over your monster to work out where the button eye will be. If you look at my finished case at the top you will see that the button eye is above the other one. This is partly deliberate, but also so that the monster wasn’t too far up the case, leaving lots of yellow underneath, although I could have filled that with something like some writing.

Pieces laid out ready to stitch

Taking a single strand of toning thread stitch the body down first with a small running stitch. At the top position the spikes underneath the body and make sure they are stitched down firmly as you go round. Next sew the black pupil over the white eye. The mouth is stitched with 3 strands of red using a stem stitch (sorry, no picture), catching the teeth in as you go. Finally, sew the circles down with a star stitch. Leave the button for now.

You’re nearly there now. Pin the front to the back. If the two don’t match exactly you can trim them a bit, but don’t go mad or your phone won’t fit in. Now, using 2 threads of stranded cotton in a colour that contrasts with both the back and front buttonhole around the edge. To make your stitches even you can mark on the front with a pencil at 0.5cm intervals 0.5cm in from the edge.

Buttonhole edging with pencil markings

Don’t expect to get all the way round with one piece of thread. If you try you will get in a knot and your thread gets worn, so weave your thread through the back of the stitches on the inside, making sure they are firm – you don’t want your phone to fall out! At the end finish off in the same way.

Weaving the thread in at the end

At the top corners I went into the same hole 3 times, and the bottom, where it is curved I went into the same hole 2 times.

Finishing the top corner

You can now see where your flap folds over onto the front. Position your button over the other piece of white felt and make sure it is in the right spot for the flap and sew it on using black thread. Finally, carefully cut a buttonhole in the flap remembering that felt has a tendency to stretch, so err on the side of caution – you can always make it bigger. Now you can trim the flap down to size, and you’re done!

The completed case

I hope you’ve enjoyed this post and if you have a go do share them with me. I’d love to see your version. If you don’t fancy a monster, what about a robot? Or it could be a flower with a loop of ribbon instead of a flap. I’m sure you’ve got your own ideas.